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    Review of: Beerpongtisch

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    On 28.01.2020
    Last modified:28.01.2020


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    In this step, I will show three options to build the LED grid. The first option requires drilling a hole into the table for each LED, setting it into the table and gluing it in place.

    Then underneath the lid of the table, we have to solder each row and column connection for each LED. We then finish off the grid by connecting the grid to the pin breakout PCB so that it can be interfaced with the master PCB.

    However, it will take you a few hours to complete less time than option 2 though. The second option is what I chose to use with this particular table.

    This step is similar to the first option except we create a jig to hold the LED grid instead of actually attaching the LEDs to the table. We then wire up the whole grid in the jig, attach the connector and then pour liquid silicone around the connections to completely encase the wiring of the LED grid.

    This allows us to be able to remove the LED grid from the table or fold up the LED grid so that it has a smaller footprint and can be shipped easier.

    This way is more expensive and more difficult as one has to purchase the liquid silicone from a supplier I found mine on AliExpress , have the required equipment to degas the silicone and then spend the extra time prepping and pouring the silicone.

    In this step I will explain how to do the second option but if you choose to use the first option, just copy the following instructions except instead of mounting your LEDs in a jig, drill out the grid on the lid of your table and superglue or hot-glue the LEDs in place on the lid.

    Then flip the table over and do the exact same wiring as I explain in this step. Complete the wiring and connector and then you're done.

    You obviously will stop short of pouring any silicone. You need the following pieces to make the jig:.

    Pick one corner of the bottom piece of plywood and measure in Mark the location and then measure straight across from that mark Keep going at Repeat the same process for the rows and you'll have your grid drawn out.

    Take a 5mm drill bit and make a hole for each LED in the jig. Take each 25mm border and arrange them flush along the outer edge of the jig. One end will have a space in the middle for the pin PCB connector.

    The jig is now made. Next, place the first column of LEDs in the jig and take care to ensure that they are all placed in the jig with the same orientation.

    Bend down each anode lead one each of the 12 LEDs and then take some solderable enamel coated wire and wrap it around the anode of the first LED two times a wire wrap tool works great for this.

    Repeat the process for each column and then do the same for the twelve rows connecting cathodes on the rows. It is critical that you put a bit of slack in the wire between each LED, otherwise the wires can break if the silicone LED grid is rolled up.

    Once the grid is completely wired, we will need to get some wire to hook up the pin breakout PCB to the grid.

    I used 3-pair phone cable but any wire will do. Solder a piece of wire to each column and route the wire to the opening on the front of the jig where we will mount the breakout connector.

    Repeat the same process for the columns. After verifying that all of the LEDs in the grid are working, we will encase it in silicone.

    Applies To None, unless you choose to create the LED grid this way instead of building it into the table. This is just here for general knowledge.

    This step is only applicable to you if you are using option 2 to make your LED grid. I don't recommend this method as it is far more expensive, time consuming and messier than option 1.

    In fact, the only reason that I tried it was to see if I would be able to make a portable LED grid that I could ship with the kits.

    I eventually decided against making these and selling them for the following reasons:. As with most products, cost is the limiting factor for this LED grid that is encased in silicone.

    However, I still wanted to post the process and results in case anybody does choose to do it this way and just for general knowledge.

    The photos above explain the process to create your own silicone LED grid. Degassing Liquid Silicone. In this step we will secure each RGB pod to the table, but first we have to mark the placement of each pod as well as drill out a hole that is large enough to fit the 2x4 IDC connector through to the bottom of the table.

    Use the photos in this step and measure out the center location of each RGB pod on the table. Make a small 1 - 2mm pilot hole at each location so that it will be easier to thread a screw into place to secure the pod once we are finished.

    There are two ways that once can use to measure out the location of each 2x4 connector in reference to the center of its respective pod.

    If you use the template, you must make sure that you set it to print out at "Actual Size" and don't use the scale to fit option in the Adobe Reader print section.

    Once you have the template printed out, you line up the center hole on the template with the pod location on the table and then make a mark where the connector hole should go and the pilot hole should go.

    Then drill out the connector hole first followed by the 2mm pilot hole. Now you're ready to connect them up! In this step, I will show you how to use a crimping tool for the various connectors on the Master PCB.

    Although it is more expensive than some other crimpers, I would definitely recommend it as I have used some other cheaper ones and they don't do as nice of a job when crimping or crimp as wide of a variety of connectors as this one does.

    As with most of this Instructable, follow the photos above to get a good understanding of the process. Not a big deal, just follow the instructions above as the instructions are the same for that type of connector.

    Use the diagram in the photos and connect up each lead on the sensor to its respective wire. You will have to do this for both the entry and the exit sensor.

    Once you have wires connected up to each sensor, align the eight CAT5 wires in the correct order and crimp an RJ45 connector on to them. Repeat the same process to make the sensor assembly for the second ball washer.

    As you will see with lots of parts in this Instructable, I tend to use CAT5 wire for longer wire runs as it is very common and cheap to purchase.

    Just strip away the outer PVC sheath to expose the four pairs of wires inside. The ball washers air baths are quite easy to install.

    I have made custom laser cut motor mounts and sensor brackets that are included in every kit sold, but if you need to make your own you can use the part template located in the main zip file or simply modify a few blocks of wood with a drill and a jigsaw Or just glue the sensor in place where the hole is.

    Just don't poke it too far into the pipe where it will obstruct the ball. The propellers for the ball washers come in a 75mm length which is too big to fit inside of the pipe.

    Take some snips and cut off the tip on each end of the propeller, ensuring that it can spin inside of the pipe. If the propeller cannot spin and you activate the ball washer, it will damage the transistor too much current that is driving the motor and may render the ball washer inoperable until that part is replaced on the Master PCB.

    If you just use 38mm ping pong balls, they will fall through just fine. I use a Dremel High Speed Cutter in my rotary tool to shave off the excess plastic in the coupler.

    The photos above provide a pretty straightforward demonstration in regards to installing the ball washers.

    There are 3 things to look out for when assembling the ballwashers:. And that's it! We're almost ready to plug everything into the Master PCB and test it all out!

    Beware that the holes in the acrylic sheet are only 50mm in diameter whereas the holes on the table are 58mm due to the lip of the couplers.

    I have tested 3 sheets of varying translucency, one being clear, one being slightly frosted and the last one being heavily diffused.

    Each sheet worked fine, with my favorite being the most diffused one as it provides a really cool effect on the table. The more diffused the sheet, the more prone it is to false detections because more of the IR light reflects back into the sensors.

    That being said, out of all 3 sheets that I used, none were causing any false detections on the table.

    Next, align the acrylic sheet over top of the table lid and ensure that it is flush to the table on all 4 sides. Then measure Seeing as the rail underneath is To secure the table to the base, we use five 2.

    Don't add the 2. Just secure the acrylic sheet to the lid of the table for now as we need access to the inside of the table.

    As for the ball washer entry and exit points, there are two options. The quickest option is to leave the ABS pipe in the entry and exit holes flush with the acrylic sheet.

    Just add silicone inside of the gap between the pipe and the acrylic sheet to waterproof it and it's done. You then increase the length of the ABS pipe for the entry and exit couplers so that it sticks up above the acrylic sheet and you can insert the cured silicone mound over top of the extended pieces of pipe.

    Make sure to waterproof the tiny gap between the ABS pipe and the acrylic sheet too. You can also 3D print a mold if you have access to a 3D printer.

    There are photos of both options. The first thing that we will connect up to the Master PCB, even before the power, is the infrared receiver. I have set up the BPT X5 table to use a bootloader Bully Bootloader so that code can be programmed into the microcontroller wirelessly from a PC with a bluetooth connection.

    The only catch is that the IR receiver is the hardware that activates the bootloader or tells it to go to the main code.

    If you don't have the infrared receiver plugged into the PCB, you don't know if the microcontroller will read a low or a high signal on startup.

    If it reads a high signal, it will go into the main code. A low signal, it will go into the bootloader and continuously loop until code is loaded into it or the PCB is reset.

    Once the receiver is plugged into the board, it will only read a low if somebody is pointing the remote at it and pressing a button in the first second that the table boots up which is how you activate the bootloader mode.

    I ran the power supply PSU line up one of the folding legs and into the table making sure that the leg could still fold. I then sealed up the entry point with some silicone and routed the rest of the cable to the same compartment with the Master PCB in it and secured it to the base of the table so that it wasn't able to shake free.

    Place the Master PCB as close to the center of the support as possible. There are 3 holes in the PCB that you can place screws into in order to secure it to the table.

    Make sure that the screws are snug, but not so tight that it cracks the PCB. The 3rd photo shows the layout of the RGB pods on the table. It's clear sailing now!

    Congratulations on getting as far as you have gotten. Let's finish connecting up the remaining parts of the table and then we can finally get to the software side of things and testing it out!

    This is a pretty basic step here. Connect up the LED grid with the 50P wiring harness and you're ready to go! To turn it on, just walk up to the LCD display, reach underneath it and press the button to turn the table on or off.

    Fully Assembled Kit This step is already done for you. The RGB underlighting assembly no longer ships soldered together. Many customers who purchased the fully assembled kit have told me that the RGB underlighting parts were faulty upon arrival or needed solder touch-ups to work properly.

    I looked into this and found out that this was happening because the whole assembly was being folded together to fit in the kit before being shipped out and then unfolded and fitted to the table by the customer.

    The soldered connections and T-Shape connectors can't handle this and were breaking. Now, all of the parts are shipped together with pre-made connectors and the 24 solder joints should only be completed when it is ready to be installed in the table.

    Note: This is all for general knowledge. You do not need to know or understand any of this to get a beer pong table working. You simply can use the standard code from the zip file in step 1.

    Fully assembled kits come pre-programmed and are ready to operate out of the box. They are programmed with the latest firmware at the time of shipment they are fully tested before shipping.

    Now that we have finished all of the construction, we can begin learning how everything works! This is where it gets really fun as there are so many animations and effects that one can make with this table.

    Before we move on to making our own animations, it is beneficial to learn how data is sent amongst the different chips, how the interrupt routines have been set up, certain time constraints, etc.

    There is a fair share of source code to sift through, whether its code for controlling the RGB pods, running animations on the grid or controlling the ball washers.

    In every C file I have ordered all of the functions alphabetically so that one can find the piece of code that they need quicker.

    As stated in earlier steps, all of the source code and documentation files are located in the downloadable zip file in step 1.

    Now, it's time to step through each function of the table one by one, completely understanding one feature before moving on to the next.

    It is the same thing that we just did in the last 35 steps with construction, only this time we are doing it with software.

    To keep the length of this Instructable shorter, I will only be touching on the core software features for this beer pong table.

    If you wish to learn about the interrupt time delays or how the IR sensors on the pods work, please refer back to step 48, step 54, step 55 and step 56 in the previous Instructable.

    Exception during serial port read: The operation has timed out. Unable to connect to device, giving up. This means one of two things. Double check that you are paired with the bluetooth module properly and that you have the "OpenCom" checkbox activated.

    Normally the bluetooth modules red LED will go completely solid when it has a stable connection, but you will see in the video that it still blinks.

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